A creative journey to the center of the Earth: from hard stones to unique jewels Pomellato presents a new interpretation of the Ritratto collection to celebrate its 50th anniversary.
To celebrate its 50th anniversary, Pomellato has created a striking new collection. This new chapter in the story of the Milanese maison is the perfect culmination of its signature characteristics: anti-conformism, creativity, craftsmanship and color. Since its inception, Pomellato jewels have focused on unconventional gems and stones; these unconventional stones, erroneously called semi-precious, have now become known as “new precious”, due to their increasing rarity and extraordinary beauty. Creating 50 beautiful jewels to celebrate 50 beautiful years, Pomellato’s anniversary collection dynamically confirms its rebellious, pioneering spirit.
Rising to the challenge of a material yet unexplored in the maison’s long history, Pomellato designed magnificent hardstone jewels. The cutting and shaping of hardstones poses a challenge to even the most expert stone-cutters since the hardstones’ lack of homogeneity make them very complicated to work with at each stage of the process. For the anniversary collection, Pomellato chose the Ritratto ring—one of its most exuberant and extroverted designs— shaping its setting into an unprecedented version of itself. Its “portrait-cut” central stone—this large, ancient Indian cut was once used for covering portraits and miniatures—is the ideal size for this new hardstone story. The cut of each of its hardstones is positioned to enhance the exact portion of the gem where color density, veins and semi-transparency converge into a perfect combination.
“To create these hardstone jewels was a journey to the center of the Earth, an unexpectedly surprising and fun experience. The creative power of nature led us to transform the uniqueness and intensity of its chromatic alchemy into abstract art. Each ring has become a veritable painting and each element of color is a story, a suggestion, a dream,” says Vincenzo Castaldo, the creative director at Pomellato. The anniversary collection embraces a variety of meticulously selected vibrant colors and natural inclusions.
Each ring seems to depict a natural “picture” or “portrait,” of a passionate true story, born of the earth. With large claws securing the stone, each setting’s design plays a role beyond pure functionality and extends into the decorative, with its pavé of precious stones: Paraiba tourmalines and haüynes, emeralds and brown diamonds, rubies or sapphires. The savoir-faire of Mother Nature becomes the beauty, emotion, and enchantment of the collection. Pomellato’s taste for organic, irregular shapes highlights all the veins and patterns of the fine stones as if they were works of art. This is the art that Mother Nature has expressed in an unrepeatable, one-of-a-kind way, just like every piece of jewelry created for Pomellato’s 50th Anniversary.
Text by Carla Angeretti
Photos by Bodha D’Erasmo & Gilda